There is no place like JoHOMEmon

I have spend the last 2 days with my host family. Yesterday, I braved another Taifun (which ended up passing us by for the most part) and drove all the way from Beppu to Fukuyoshi. I met up with my host family, and we had as quiet of a day as it can be with 3 small children in the house. We also went grocery shopping. The amount of determination and persistence it takes to keep 2 small children in one toy shinkansen grocery cart is astounding. I don't know how my two host sisters do it daily. Also, I have through determination created a better relationship with the baby. Before, she would cry whenever she saw me. However, Okaasan assured me, that she does that with any stranger, not just the "foreign" kind. Now she even laughed at me, and can be in a room alone with me without crying. Unless she is hungry.

Today, we visit to the Jômon open air park, that doubles as one of the oldest excavation sites in Japan. The weather is brilliant, as you can probably see in the pictures. We wander around the premises for 3 hours. We could have spend 10 hours and still not seen it all. It is amazing. From the replicated houses, to the old burial grounds and walk ways, all of it's a joy to experience.

After this, we stop at a famous ceramics shop in Akita.

For dinner we visit Sushi place that I have been to 10 years ago, back then with mum and dad. We have great conversations and even greater sushi. To end the day, we visit to the local Onsen one last time. I can't believe my time in Kyushu is almost over.

Pictures Fukuyoshi

Tomorrow and the following day will be spend shopping in Fukuoka before I have to go back. :)

Lonely roller coasters

Today is my last day in Beppu. And I have really done all the normal touristy things. So instead, I travel to an amusement park. There are no school holidays, and it's Tuesday, so I am nearly alone in the gigantic park. I ride the roller coasters sometimes on my own, but in all cases as many times as I possibly can without waiting times. I love it!

Back in Beppu, I spend 1 hour in a cat cafe with cute cats and kittens, who don't know that I usually prefer dogs.

Last in the day, I take a mud bath in Hoyoland Onsen. The setup is... adventurous. There is next to no signage, so you wander around naked. The outside bath is mixed, which means you have to somehow get in and out of the bath with modesty. 2 other ladies and myself take 3 tries to time it right, before we are sufficiently submerged to face the "men" in the bath. I even get a ride from a few ladies back into the city, which saves me the wait for the bus.

Pictures Beppu 

Mountain in the clouds

Kyushu is preparing for another Taifun the day after tomorrow. The day that I want to go back to Fukuoka. Well, we will see what happens.

The weather seems better today, so I take the rope-way up the highest mountain in the area Tsurumi San. Sadly, a few minutes after I arrive on top, clouds completely surround the mountain. This means there is no view at all. But the air is refreshingly cool, and there  are a few nice statures and walkways, so I am not to bothered. After this, I take a bus back to the sea, where I have a hot sand steam bath. Very relaxing and warming. After wandering around some more, I find a great family owned Kimono business, who have easy to wear Yukata, which accommodate all sizes and can be put on in less than 5 minutes. I have great fun at the store and leave with a beautiful Yukata. This is really all for today, I am still a bit tired from yesterday.

Pictures Beppu

Kunisaki- a beautiful secret in the mountains

Today, I am undertaking a traditional Japanese bus tour through Kunisaki. Usually, I would never go for a pre-arranged bus tour. However, the places I want to go, they are quite far off the public transport grid. The bus tour includes only 4 people, so at least we are not a horde of tourists following a tiny flag around like confused ducklings.

First, we stop at Usa Jingu. It's a gigantic shrine complex in a picturesque pine forest. One major standout here, is the fact that Shinto Shrine and Buddhist Temple exist in the same place, fitting together almost seamlessly in a blend of black and red. I could have spend hours wandering around and dreaming of the past. However, as with all guided tours, the time frames are very tight. This is an overarching theme throughout the day. Any of the places we visit would require at least double the time to experience fully. But without the tour, I would have not been able to visit any of the places at all.

Next is Fukiji, the oldest wooden structure of Kyushu, including mural cavings from the Heian times (9-11th century). Sadly, no pictures are allowed in the temple. However, we have a monk explain the history of the place (which I am struggling to follow, as mosquitoes try to eat me alive again.)

Maki Odo also does not allow pictures, with grand buddha statures to match.

The following stop nearly kills me. Kumano Magaibutsu are buddha statures carved in gigantic rock surfaces.  However, to get to those statues, you have to climb up mountain "paths" that are simply insane. Please see the pictures for further explanation. However, I make it safely up and down.

The last stop on our tour is Futagoji, a temple complex with a gigantic pair of Niouzu statures. Usually, those type of stone monuments are fenced in and warded off, but these just stand around in the great scenery. Really, the Kunisaki area is beautiful.

In the evening, I relax in the Hyotan onsen. :)

Pictures Kunisaki

A Game called: Allergy or just really hot Onsen

Today is packed with natural hot springs, or "jigoku" as they are called in Beppu. I manage to hit them all in one day, and I am also able to try a few onsen out myself. The first jigoku is gray and bubbles within muddy waters. They place is called Oniishibozu, because apparently the gray bubbles remind Japanese people of shaved monk heads. I also enter the Oniisibozu Onsen. It leaves me bright red and again worried about a possible allergy against the water.

Next it's the Umi-Jigoku natural hot spring, with bright blue water and a green house powered by the steam . I also enter the Yama Jigoku, where they raise a lots of animals as well, including a hippopotamus and rabbits.

I follow the road further south towards Kamado Jigoku. The steam of these natural hot springs was used for cooking in older times. I eat an egg boiled in the steam, which tastes like German Soleier.
However, not all of the Jigoku are as... pleasant. The Oniyama Jigoku decided to bread crocodiles. Who in the 7 hells thinks: Hot spring... definitely needs more crocodiles. The Shiraike Jigoku breeds piranhas.

The last two hells are Chinoike, a red boiling hot spring, and Tatsumaki, a natural geyser.
For lunch, I eat some of the best Omuraisu ever. The chef has worked in the Intercontinental Hotel in Hamburg and Düsseldorf. In the 70s. He is very happy to talk and tells me about the time he was allowed to make a Bento for the Tenno, who had visited Germany for the Olympics. He also introduces me to his friend, who studied classical opera singing in Lüneburg in the 90s.
I also enter the Kannawa Mushiyu Onsen, where people volunteer to bake themselves in a gigantic oven. You wear a Yukata, and lay down on herb straw in a tiny oven while hot steam is pouring in. It is insane. But of course I had to try it.

For dinner, I went to a great sushi place, where the chef challenged me to eat his house special. We had a great time talking about the history of "coexisting" Buddhism and Shinto in Japan. And I did my best to eat the octopus leg without pulling a face. I succeeded.

Pictures Beppu

Beppu not so nice

Today doesn't start well. The station assistant sold me the wrong type of train ticket yesterday, so I have to exchange it. Then I have to take my heavy suitcase up and down the staircase again. In Beppu, I meet with a friendly tourist information employee. However, once I arrive at my hotel, I am made to feel quite... unwelcome. They clearly don't want a foreigner at the hotel, and they try to do everything they can to discourage me. This includes stating I should carry my suitcase in the rain until 4 PM, instead like every other hotel I have been to, I could leave it at reception. I go back to the station for free wifi, cancel my reservation and find a different hotel.

After this, I try to stay in high spirits, but it is a bit difficult. Finally the rain lets up, I get some food, and try my first onsen. It is a very nice old house, but there is just a tiny bath to use. There is again a friendly older lady who helps me with the ins and outs if the bath (there is a definite pattern of friendly old ladies on my trip). And after I get out of the bath tub, it seems I have reacted quite allergic to some contents of the water. My legs are bright red and stay that way for about 20 minutes before the effect subsides. I hope this was just something in this onsen, and will not be repeated in all the other resorts. I have been fine in onsen before, even in the sulfur kind. However, the second onsen I try in the evening brings the same result. The brochures state the water is rich on Sodium Hydrogen Carbonate... baking soda. I don't think I am allergic to that, but we will see.

I check into my new hotel and start shifting through the information I collected. Sunday will be spend on a bus tour to Kunisaki peninsula. Saturday will be spend at the hells and the onsen surrounding them. Then I have one day for the ropeway and further away onsen.

Pictures Beppu

Usuki, Utzki, Tzki

Today, I am getting on yet another train to Usuki, or as the guy at the station calls it "Uttzki". Over 2 hours and I fall asleep again. I am really getting into the "public transport sleep" mode of things. Thankfully, so far, I have always woken up on time. (Which probably means, tomorrow I won't). Usuki station is small, and requires me to climb steep stairs up and down before I am finally at the station proper. From there thankfully, it is only a short walk to the hotel. However, it is already looking like rain. I take my umbrella and wander off into the "city".

First, I walk threw the ruins of Usuki Castle. Like many things I find today, many things are yet to be discovered. Many of the explanations include "is unknown" or "has not yet been found". However, a few things are clear. When the castle was first build, the ground was still an island. As a lot of sand and sediment started to reclaim the sea, the lords decided to reclaim the soil for more ground to build. Nowadays, the island has fully become part of the bigger island called "Kyushu". During my wanderings through the ruins, I also meet a full class of elementary school children. I stand still and let them pass, as they all stare and some actually walk backwards to stare some more.

After this, I walk through some old samurai residences and the old town center. Of course, after a while, it feels like the rooms all blend together. If you've seen one you have seen the mold they all follow. However, there are very few old buildings in this good of a state, and I enjoy wandering around with Tatami under my feet. There is something oddly calming about it. The rain lets up and then comes back with a vengeance. Most of the rest of the day is spend under an umbrella.

I also take a bus towards some great stone buddha carvings. Again, it is unknown who or why, but there are some great statures carved into a volcano ash made rock wall. Some of them are in truly remarkable condition, if you imagine they are actually over 1000 years old.

Usuki is actually also famous for Fugu (blow-fish). I take a few minutes to think about the potential deadliness of blow fish, and the possibility that my trip will have a quite sudden end. But life is for living, and I wouldn't pass up the "best blow-fish in south Japan" for anything. I ask for a very good recommendation, and eat blow fish sashimi, tuna, tempura and much more.

Pictures Usuki

Put the Udo in the Jingu (I need to be stopped)

Ok, so all the weather forecasters in the land, on the tell and on the interwebs agreed on rain today. Horrible, horrible rain. So responsible me goes around carrying a big umbrella all day, with not a single drop of rain in sight. The weather is a lie!

I get on the bus towards Udo Jingu first, and arrive with a horde of Chinese tourists. I don't mind tourists, really. I am one myself at the moment and all. However, there is something about bus loads of  Chinese tourists that sets me on edge. The people I have met today, walk into other pictures, don't even attempt to honor the shrine prayers, and also run through the entire complex without much of a look left or right. I am quite glad when they are on their way again. I see a couple taking wedding pictures, traditional white kimono included.

Shrines with "jingu" in the name usually mean there is an early history Tenno involved somewhere. This shrine is dedicated to the father of the first Tenno Jimmu. The shrine is famous with newly married couples, and a long time ago, even Tenno would wed here. The shrine has a breathtaking scenery, including high, rocky cliffs and a "turtle" stone. Which of course you are supposed to throw something at it for good luck. They also have a "mystic" cave with "breast shaped stones". I swear sometimes I don't even need to make up a funny story.

I try to find a hidden shrine in the mountains, but all the ways to it turn impassible at some point. On my way back, I speak with a nice grandmother. She talks to me about the Buddhist past next to the shinto Udo Jingu, which was abruptly ended in Meiji times. She also had a tame wild boar that came down from the mountains nightly, even with her babies in toe. She is really nice, and she gives me some oranges as well.

Next I get on a bus back to Aoshima. This is a tiny island connected to the coast via a short bridge. All around the island, rows of stones extend outwards. They are called the devil's waterboard. The shrine is pretty with tropical flowers. It also houses an exhibition, where the story of Jimmu Tenno and his father is told. The woman housing the exhibition is also very talkative, and we have a nice chat about the story as well as their style choices in the dolls, as they wear some distinctively Korean garments.

Pictures Udo Jingu/Aoishima

Let it rain, let it pour

The amazing weather of the first part of my trip (we will just discount the Taifun) has come to an end. It is raining as I get up, and it will not stop raining for most of the day, even though I travel a few 100 km south and east. I get on a tiny bus towards Nobeoka. The bus driver informs us immediately that this is a very "slow" bus. Slow in the sense that it stops on every teeny tiny bus station, where ever a teeny tiny grandmother or grandfather needs to make a trip to the "big city". We spend almost 3 hours between mountain villages, and without the rain I would have had amazing pictures to show for it.

The weather however makes for great scenery, as clouds hang low in the valleys and we pass over peaks. Once in Nobeoka, I wait for the next train to Miyazaki. It has stopped raining, and I foolishly think that's it for the day. In Miyasaki, I collect all pamphlets there are about the area. This is the first city. where the English pamphlets are very rare. Not that I can't make do with the Japanese ones, but comparing the two helps a lot with figuring out station/city names.

I have just about left the station and walked 5 minutes towards the hotel, and the rain returns with a vengeance. I find temporary safety under the roof of an office building. However, if I stay here too long, somebody will most likely be dispatched to eliminate the unauthorized foreigner. Once the rain lets up a bit, I run towards the next Kombini. A new umbrella is needed. As soon as I buy it, if course the rain stops. I get to my hotel, and check in- as always- is a few hours away. I decide to make some way in my sightseeing plan for Miyazaki, fighting the rain. However, Miyazaki does not make it easy to get around. One of it's main attractions (Mayazaki Jingu) is serviced by about 4 bus lines.

However, none of those run more often then once an hour at the most. After waiting for a bit, I decide on a train ride instead. But even the train takes 30 minutes to even depart from the station. The shrine complex is dedicated to the first ever Tenno of Japan (and in folk belief the son of the goddess Amaterasu). It is empty save for an ever- renewing swarm of mosquitoes. My legs may never recover at this rate. However, there is really not much to see here. There is one lonely guide, who explains a bit about the shrine. He confirms, most fun happens here during spring, when they have festivals, horse games etc. Sadly, the other site (a peace park) has no direct bus access at all. There aren't even restaurants around. I know I gushed over the "village" character of Takachiho, but it had cafes, little shops and restaurants.

I find a magic bus back to the station and check into my hotel. After a bit of an rest, I leave the hotel to find some dinner. Miyazaki is famous for its char-grilled chicken. I find a tiny restaurant with some great food. The company is nice as well. I meet a man on a business trip, who is quite happy to hear I am from Germany. His son is studying German in University and will be spending a year in Germany soon. We have a good time talking, and he tells me a bit about the local Sakes.

Pictures Miyazaki

Propositioned by Izanagi

I learned a few things today. I have mastered the Japanese art of sleeping wherever, whenever. I fell asleep on the 3 hour bus ride without even meaning to. We did a "tourist" stop at a little place in the mountains, which may be worth visiting during a later trip. In Takachiho, my hotel is for the first time quite close to the station, and I am on my way to sightseeing without much fuzz. This is when I learn that Takachiho is a hidden gem without too many tourists. The streets are small, the buildings old, and the history in the place is quite frankly breathtaking. The Takachiho jinja is first on my list. An old beauty of wood and stone, it represents all the gods of the 88 shrines around the area. They also have a pair of Cedars,who have grown so far together even their roots are interlinked. I don't need to mention this is a great couples destination, right? My day will start and end at Takachiho jinja, but I don't know that yet.

The next stop is Takachiho Gorge. The area has a great number of natural waterfalls, but only one of them is deemed "the" gorge. The route to it is quite steep, and I have countless cars as well as buses pass me by as I try not to be hit. Next lesson of the day: even in the country side, Japanese people don't believe in pavements. Slowly but surely, I get to the river. They have a lot of natural ponds in the area, which are filled with the fattest, biggest koi I have ever seen. And I have seen a lot of koi. This is the only spot that feels a bit cramped, as buses after buses after buses of Japanese tourists flog to the viewing platforms. The gorge is beautiful. It was formed after an eruption of Mount Aso. Of course, the folklore tells another tale. It is part of the very creation of Japan, at least according to Shinto believes.

The viewing of the gorge sadly has to commence on land, as the river is too dangerous today to take a boat. I opt for a taxi to take me back to town, as I have a lot more sightseeing to do. This will not be the last time I have somebody call me a Taxi. Back in town, I pass through Gamadase Market, where local produce and crafts are sold. After this, it is time to dive head first into the Shinto believe of Japanese creation. I can't believe Takachiho isn't overrun with tourists. Here, the magic happened. It goes like this:

Once upon a time, the world was covered by sea (quite forward thinking there), and the land now known as Japan flowed around in the sea like jelly fish. From "heaven" two gods were selected to create the world (Japan, but really, which country hasn't believed itself to be the whole world?):  Izanagi and Izanami. They received a spear to muck around in the pre-worldly soup. As they withdraw the spear, clumps of earth fell from it, forming the islands of Japan. Both gods descended upon the land on the spot Amenomanai  (Which is a spot of a lot of twisted, strong trees and MILLIONS of moquitoes) and the Kushifuru Shrine (which is so empty I can't believe it). And it is build in a holy forest, quite and breathtakingly beautiful to get lost in. The two gods married and lived in the Aratate shrine. There, you have to hit a piece of wood really hard 7 times to make your dreams come true. I love that!

The creation story of course goes on and gets a lot more detailed, but long story short, they make lots and lots of baby gods, who become Japanese deities as well. Among the first is Amaterasu, who allegedly gave birth to the first Tenno and through him to all of the Japanese people.

After this intense lesson in Japanese folklore, I walk back to my hotel to check in. I find an invitation to join the nightly rendition of Yokagura, as well as an email that the Japanese post system has failed me. Long story short, I left an important piece of luggage in Nagasaki, and hoped to find it send to Takachiho once I arrive. Sadly, it has not arrived. I take a Taxi to the big post distribution office (10 minutes before closing time) to find out that the package hadn't even made it out of Nagasaki. Now, German public servants would have now shooed me out of the office, claiming closing time and bye bye. Not the Japanese post employees though. They take the phone and argue with the post masters, figure out post routes and everything to make sure to get the package delivered on time to my next hotel. This takes about 30 minutes to do, and I cannot apologize and thank them enough for their efforts. Did I mention the redirection comes free of charge? They even get me a taxi back to the town center.

I choose to spend the 2 hours befor the Kagura with some quality Takachiho beef Yakiniku. I tell you, in my humble opinion, it is even better than Kobe beef. It really is.

And so in the end, I return back to Takachiho Jinja for some quality Yokagura. These are dances usually performed throughout the night in November, to appease the gods and thank for good harvest. Usually, there are 33 parts to last the night, but they perform 4 selected pieces every evening for the tourists.

I have taken a short video of each of the songs, however, the performances of course last much longer.
The first dance Tajikarao, shows the god Tajikaro, who is searching for Amaterasu, who hid in a cave.
The second dance is Ameno-Uzume, an amusing dance that was designed to make the gods laugh and cheer, so Amaterasu may become curious and come out of her cave.
The third dance Totori, depicts Tajikarao at an amazing feat of strength, as he rips the stone doors off the cave.
And the last dance, my absolute favourite for many reasons, shows the two gods Izanagi and Izanami making rice and getting drunk. The two of them actually interact with the audience. Making each other jealous and so on. You may also pinpoint the exact moment where I get tackled to the floor by Isanagi. I give them that, it was very funny indeed.

All in all, you can spend probably a lot longer in Takachiho and not get bored. I kinda regret that I have to leave before seeing the Amanoyasugawara shrines, the Kunimigaoka or the Railway. Really, anybody who wants to have a fun time, with lots of folklore, Takachiho is the place.


Pictures Takachiho

Slowly over the lake with Pikachu's help

I survived my night in the box. I decide against another bus ride and instead opt for some traditional as well as some more modern parks. First, I visit Suizenji Jojuen, a park which displays traditional Japanese "garden features". It also houses a nice little Shinto shrine, which sadly has been affected by the earthquake as well. Later, I walk south towards Lake Kami Ezu. While Suizenji appears on every tourist map, Lake Ezo is the hang-out spot for locals. You'll see elderly couples walking along the green, spotting fish and birds. You will see children of all ages in the waters, catching fish and bugs. Lots of students also relax on the shores, or go for a swim. I spend a few hours relaxing here as well. I even rent a Pikachu themed peddle boat. Including a proper three point turn to reverse park the boat back on the pier.

After this, I go back to some more "cultural" spots, such as the former home of Natsume Soseki, as well as the local crafts center, which houses a great exhibition on "everyday" crafts which have all but disappeared in modern times. I even found some early Christmas presents.

To end my last day in Kumamoto, I try some horse meat. They even sell some as tartare, which means uncooked with a raw egg. Yummy.

Pictures Kumamoto

Kumamoto, castle from afar

I am still fighting the jet-lag and waking at 3 AM. However, at least I get to the train on time and make my way towards Kumamoto. Here I hear that the Aso Vulcano is still closed, so my plans for tomorrow are non-existent. I get on another street car (this time at least without the indecent amount of stairs, and find my capsule hotel.

I leave my luggage and walk towards the Kumamoto castle, which has been devastated by the recent earthquake. By this time, it is again around noon, and I am walking around in humid heat, around 30 degrees and 80% humidity. I am just about dying. I find a friendly Japanese volunteer guide and he shows me around the view points and sights that we are currently allowed to access. Nobody has set foot inside the castle, as the structure is currently that unsound and still breaking apart as pressure from collapsed parts works against the foundation. The castle was housing a museum of old artifacts, which are currently buried. They assume the rebuilt will take around 20 years.

But Kumamoto's tourism board tries to make up for it where ever they can. There are frequent events and music festivals around the castle grounds, as well as shows of traditional crafts and skills such as shamisen music. By the time I make it back for hotel check-in I am exhausted. The capsules are definitely the smallest I have ever experienced, my suitcase does not even fit in the lockers. I start to get a bit frustrated as things are not as advertised on the website. The Wifi is non-existent. I fight for about 30 minutes to get connected to a public wifi streets away. Not sure if it will allow me to upload the pictures. You cannot bring food to the "relaxation rooms" nor anywhere on the premise really. And all of that just for a little less money. I am of half a mind to change hotels tomorrow, but I can endure this for 2 days (today and tomorrow) before I move on anyway. However, if m capsule hotel in Beppu is the same, I definitely need to change. This is no way to spend a holiday.

However, they do have 24 hour Onsen access. Which I will use now to cool down from all the stress. Tomorrow... well, I am not quite sure if the 1,5 hour bus journey to Yamaga will be worth it, or if I should instead stay in Kumamoto and visit some museums for a change (as walking around at noon in this humidity is madness).


Pictures Kumamoto

Secret Christians and nice Buddhist monks

I am still waking up at around 3 AM. Damn you jet-lag. Nevertheless, I roll out of bed and get to the station, on my way towards Shimabara. The journey includes a small train, which slugs along the sea side for over an hour and stops at every little cluster that could be called a "village". But the scenery is beautiful, so I shall endure.

 On arrival, I first make for the Shimabara castle. It houses a big museum with some of the largest variety of "christian" artifacts, At some point, most of the region (including the feudal lord) actually converted to Christianity. They built churches, schools, and even send a delegation of little boys for an audience with the pope. No, really. They send 6 little boys to the Vatican. There are so many inappropriate jokes I could make right now. But at least the little boys made it back to Japan within 10 years. Sadly, the tale of Shimabara Christianity has a cruel end. After Christianity became first strictly regulated, and finally outlawed after a big uprising, Christians who refused to denounce their faith were boiled alive in the volcanic hot springs or crucified. However, a few thousand continued to practice in hiding. Which led to the creation of "hidden" christian artifacts. Like a hidden cross in a street lamp. Or a Holy Mary stature disguised as Kannon Buddha. Without official rules or regulations, their faith developed into... interesting paths. If I ever get to write another thesis, I would like to write it on them.

The top of the castle also has a viewing platform, and a friendly elderly volunteer. Who doesn't assume me to be american, so we talk for a while, about the devastating volcano eruption, which caused the breakdown of part of the mountain, and a gigantic tsunami. But as the gentleman puts it "It only happens every 200 years or so. That's not too bad."

From the castle, I visit a few old Samurai houses. Sadly, there is not much to see beside the natural water ways through the districts. Another district has an abundance of kois and traditional garden views. In one of the houses, and older Lady in Kimono serves free tea and also does not just assume I am american. I like this town!

She also sends me off towards the natural (and free!) hot springs. Which are a bit too hot for the weather. But the cold natural water springs around the city keep me well hydrated. Of course, I need to make a trip to the local temples. At the first one, an elderly lady approaches me as I am about to leave. She asks me if I had seen the sleeping Buddha yet. And without even waiting for an answer, she basically drags me off towards the statue. All in Japanese, by the way. I like this town! Not only does she show me around the temple, she also brings me to the next one, and asks the local head monk for a private sit-down. Before I know what is happening, I am in the temple garden, drinking tea and conversing about Buddhism with the monks. They also give me a private tour of the temple and its 30 holy "kami" statures, which include gods of different denominations as well as shinto gods.

After I make my way back to Nagasaki, I search for a good place for my last dinner here. I decide on sushi. The first place actually tells me they don't serve foreigners. Which I have not experienced before. But of course, every restaurant owner can make that decision for themselves. The second little shop actually welcomes me gladly, and I get told to sit down. The couple next to me is a bit drunk but lots of fun. We talk, and I get to ask the sushi master for recommendations. And all he provides tastes great. So in the end, I had amazing conversations today, met lots of great people and I learned a lot. Did I mention they also did not let me pay my bill?

Tomorrow it's off to Kumamoto.

Pictures Shimabara

Nagasaki and its stairs (take 2)

Due to a stomach bug, I spend most if my night in the bathroom instead of my bed. Which means I hit the streets a lot later than usual. Firstly, I get back to Nagasaki Station, where  a "Bread Market" reaches its last day. I get some "totally french" (totally not french) bread and walk towards the first site, the stone memorial for 26 martyrs who were crucified for their christian faith. Their crucifixion also marked the start of the Japanese "sakkoku" (closure of boarders). There are a lot of homeless cats around Nagasaki I find. And unlike western cats, these seem to like me.

At this point, I notice that Nagasaki's "gentle slopes" are a dirty, dirty lie. For the next hours, as I hunt down shrine after temple after shrine, I climb an indecent amount of stairs and hills. Also, if course none of the shrines or temples are connected. So every time, I have to climb up, climb down, walk 200 meters, and repeat in infinity. At this point, it should be clear that I like shrines and temples. A lot. Especially their history, which was often turbulent as Shinto and Buddhism overtook each other as regimes or political leaders changed.

The last time I visited Nagasaki, I already did the Peace Park, Atomic Bomb Museum and Deijima. So no need to do them again.

After all of that, a take a rope way up to Inasa yama with a nice view over the entire town. Now, I am calling it an early night. Tomorrow, the Samurai/Onsen village calls.

09/22 Pictures 

So many stairs

The day yesterday has really knocked the wind out of me. I sleep through most the train ride and the humidity is doing the rest once I arrive in Nagasaki. With cable cars (and so, oh so many stairs, why? Please why?) I arrive in my hotel and leave my luggage. The surrounding shopping streets are nice. I find a small button store, incredibly expensive fruit, socks with bows and a pet shop to pick up some funky leads.

To my dog loving friends out there, you may need t skip a few pictures in today's set. These sort of pet shops existed 10 years ago when I first came to Japan and they seem to still flourish. They "display" the dogs and cats for sale in tiny white boxes, with one side completely see-through for anybody to stare/knock the glass. The dog just stays in the tiny box all day, no interaction with others. This is not ok. I don't know why it is an accepted method of caring for/selling dogs in Japan. I searched for the place because they advertised a cat cafe as well. However, after seeing the way they treat puppies, I didn't want to see how they treat their cats upstairs.

I also backtrack towards the main station and grab all the tourist pamphlets. Looks like a "legal" tour to Gunkanjima is almost impossible, as already booked out until next week. Also, there is a pottery village and an Onsen/samurai town close by. Well, close is a relative term. As either village is about 2 hours one way, I can only choose one location. I will need to make that decision tomorrow, as I try to track down all the shrines and temple in the city.

My jet-lag is hitting me again quite hard this afternoon/evening. I will try to go out again for some quality food, but then I am out for the count today. The locals say it is "cooling" down after the Taifun. But 28°C and 70% humidity is not my idea of "cooling".

09/21 Pictures

Back to the start

I counted 7 individual mosquito bites on my legs this morning. This is getting ridiculous. However, I thank god for small mercies, as the typhoon has calmed down somewhat, and I make it to the station with a dry suitcase. However, the station marks the end of my early lucky streak. Let it be known, if you have people at Japanese train station entrances bowing and apologizing as you go past, something is very wrong. What's wrong you ask? Well, none of the trains are going. The typhoon may be past the danger zone, but public transport is still on a stand still.

First, I try my luck and drag my big suitcase downstairs. Just to hear from the station people: "No trains for you!". Great. I drag my suitcase back upstairs. The information desk is a little more helpful: "You could take a bus for 3 hours, and then use a taxi for another 30 minutes." ... Well, thanks but no thanks. I manage to get the local wifi working and contact Okaasan. (Of course the wifi is phasing in and out, as about 4 times the usual people are stuck at the station). Okaasan tells me to try my luck, and get as far as I can towards the destination. Which is currently Meinohama. Once I am stranded, I should contact her again. My lucky streak returns in Meinohama, as my train actually turns into a long distance train that will pass my destination, Fukuyoshi. Once in Fukuyoshi, I realize the flaw in my plan. The tiny Fukuyoshi Station does not have Wifi. I sigh and enable my mobile data. That will be one costly bill by the end of the month.

But in the end, Okaasan comes to the rescue, and I also meet my Neesan and her two children as well. The house still looks like I remember. However, now there are a lot more toys! I meet my two host sisters, my host grandmother, host father and all they grand children. It is an amazing experience. We have a great day of talking, playing, strolls around the quarter, some amazing stake and a great Onsen trip to round it all off. We even make some "Sushi". There is so much I remember about this place and the people that live here. It has been 10 years, but here I am still "Jun Chan" no matter what happens. They gave me such a warm welcome, and I am happy to have met them again.

  Pictures

Alone between shrines

I wake up at 4 AM. Japan is outside of my door, but I am supposed to sleep my jet-lag away. Unfair. At 7, I can’t take it anymore. The next hour brings some nice Japanese TV, and one clear problem. Kyushu is preparing for a typhoon, which will hit tonight and stay until noon tomorrow. Great. Yesterday, I thought Japan was crying tears of joy that I am back. Now I am starting to think it is trying to flush me out by all means possible. But I am not going to let “ a little rain“ get me down.

I start at Hakata station and try to make my way towards Dazaifu. Try being the  imperative word. At first I buy the wrong type of ticket. Then I take the wrong train. Then I almost miss the right one. Well, it seems whenever I don’t ask for directions, I definitely go the wrong way. The universe wants me to just practice my Japanese whenever I can.

Finally I arrive at Futsukaishi, and I try to follow the directions on my English map to the different sites. That‘s my first mistake. I should have never picked up the English map. It has no road names, the road markings don’t make sense, and the Japanese place names have been… we will call it „translated“ to avoid offence. At some point I have to give up. Asking random people on the street works better anyway. I arrive at the first shrine, Enoki Jinja. I only meet one older Gentleman on his morning walk. The shrine is a bit off path. However, when I finally make it to the first big site -the remains of the Dazaifu Government Office- I remain alone. There‘s  a gardener, and that is it. No tourists. I mean, it is raining, but they warned me Dazaifu would be busy regardless of weather or day. Slowly I walk through the old ruins, temples and shrines. I think in the first 3 hours of my trip, I met about 10 people, none of them normal „tourists“. This means I get some great pictures without  visual distractions. It also starts to creep me out. Where is everybody? Have I wandered into silent hill?

Kaidan-in and Kanzeon-ji are behind me, as I climb up to a little shrine where Tokugawa Ieyasu is said to have rallied his followers. Again, nobody there but a horde of mosquitoes, ready to eat me alive. And they do. After this, I get lost again. This time I am saved by an older couple, who direct me back to the next big shrine on my list: Dazaifu Tenmangu Jingu. And finally, after a morning of loneliness, I find them. The tourists. I find them all crammed into the main street towards Tenmangu Jingu. By the time I make it to the main stone gates, I want my creepy loneliness back. But the shrine is beautiful, with it’s big open areas, the elegant Stone animals and fat koi fish. I love koi. They are fat and happy and everybody loves them. I buy a few good luck charms. The shrine economy must be great, especially because each charm expires in exactly 1 year. It seems faith does have a date of expiry after all ;) . I also witnessed the performance of the world’s smallest Drummers. I managed a short video for everybody to enjoy.

I also went to the shrine museum, and they had some nice swords in there. After my way back to Fukuoka, I mostly looked around the Tenjin stores. Some things have stayed the same, but most smaller stores have changed. Also, there are only 3 gothic lolita stores left now. How times change.

Now I am sitting in my hotel room waiting for the storm. See you on the other side, guys. Tomorrow I have to carry my suitcase through a typhoon. Let’s see how that goes!

Pictures 09/19 Dazaifu

Sleepless over clouds

Finally, with the last working day behind me, and 3 weeks of holiday ahead, I get ready to depart. The last plates washed up, the trash taken care of, and off I go. My airline is the Korean Asiana airline. I chose them, because they were cheap and promised to get me to Fukuoka without much delay. That they did. But a cheap flight means cheap seats. So I spend the 10 hours mostly tossing and turning in my seat, on the never-ending quest to find a comfortable sleeping position. I also tried to ignore my seat neighbors - an older Korean couple- who thought bringing their naked feet all the way to our armrest and higher was a good way to practice flexibility.

With the positivism of a fresh tourist, I asked for the official paperwork in Japanese. But it all worked out, and none of the airport guards had anything negative to say. So Japan received another set of my fingerprints, and I officially entered Fukuoka. The train ride was short, and a great reminder of Japanese train etiquette. First and foremost, I have to learn standing on the escalator, again. In the southern area of Japan, you stand on the left, and queue on the right.

The issues started only when I arrived at Hakata Station. I had an idea (and a google maps page) of where my hotel should be. Sadly, finding it meant walking through pouring rain, choosing the wrong lane about 5 times before finally, finally arriving at the hotel. I was soaking wet. Understandably the ladies at the check-in were a bit suspicious of the drenched foreigner in their lobby. But they had my reservation, and I was able to get into my room. 

After I ventured out again to get some food, I discovered a way to stay almost completely dry from the station all the way to my hotel. Well, some things you have to learn the hard way. Now I am sitting in my hotel with some konbini food. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

Pictures: 09/18 Fukuoka

Once more with feeling...

This is my blog to share my experiences travelling around Kyūshū. I have done this type of trip before, but this time, I am going back to the start. The first time I lived in Japan, I lived in Fukuoka. And I am sad to say, it took me 10 years to return to this part of Japan. 

Itinerary

09/18-09/21: Fukuoka/Dazaifu/Yoshinogary/Nokonoshima
09/21-09/24: Nagasaki/Shimabara
09/24-09/26: Kumamoto/Aso
09/26-09/27: Takachiho
09/27-09/29: Miyazaki/Aoshima/Udo Jingu
09/29-09/30: Usuki
09/30-10/05: Beppu/Futago/Yufu
10/05-10/09: Fukuoka